Ischia, Napoli, Genova

After a great morning run through the surrounding forest and the cities two castles, we took our leave of the convent and Assisi and took the train down to Napoli. We got the cheapest possible ticket, which meant that we stopped in every imaginable town, hamlet, and farmhouse. The trip was made even longer when an older woman fainted on the train and we waited until an ambulance came to take her off. Anyways, Garibaldi station and piazza Garibaldi in Naples were just as crazy as I remember them from four years ago. The construction on the square still is going on just like it was when I got to Napoli, and no progress appears to have been made either. We had a great pizza and got on the ferry to the Island of Ischia. Just being back in Napoli was a lot of fun for me. It is really its own micro-culutre, and basically its own language… I had forgotten how different it really is. When we got to the hostel, none of the management was there, so we walked in, took keys and sheets, and went up to find a pair of beds. The manager didn’t seem to mind in the least when he got there.

We rented motorini the next morning, which has been the highlight of the trip… don’t worry mom, I only drove between lanes of traffic a few times. A cool girl from Oregon named Shawn joined us for the day’s adventures. We took the motorini around the whole island. We stopped at some hot springs that flow straight into the Mediterranean for a very warm dip, we climbed to the top of the volcanic mountain, stopped and swam at a few other beaches, as well as some little towns and the island’s castle. Lunch was especially spectacular. I had homemade Gnocchi alla Sorrentina that was divine. Shawn’s carbonara was also remarkable. We grabbed a few balls of mozzarella di buffala as well, and they were quickly re-enthroned as my favorite food. The next morning, after one last scooter ride through the tiny alleyways that were often only three feet wide, we headed back to Napoli.

After some Pizza at settesoldi, I got a haircut, brad bought a suit, and we both got some new ties. We hiked back up into the centro storico to go visit some of my mission friends and converts. We were able to see Anna, Gaetano, Umberto, and Meri. I was thrilled to see them all, and they were happy reunions. Umberto made us some great past’al brodo. I loved walking through the streets that I had spent so much time on. I had forgotten just how dirty, run down, and dangerous they are, but being back was truly thrilling.

We took the night train up to Genova. We arrived exhausted and were greeted by some heavy rains. Genovese focaccia quickly woke us up though, and after leaving our things at the hostel, we took a boat ride around the Genovese ports, and then visited the San Lorenzo cathedral, the Palazzo Ducale, and the rest of down town Genova. That night we met up with fellow BYU Italian student instructors, Debora Marzano and Drew Horton with their spouses and had gelato together while sitting in the main square. Saturday was a dream of a day. We met up with one of Brad’s mission friends who lives in Genova, and he gave us a brief, but very informative tour of the city, and then took us out to Lunch at a terrific sea food place overhanging the Mediterranean in the posh Nevri neighborhood. The food was great, as were the view and the company. Brad’s friend named Roberto works in the Italian government’s antimafia group, and sings in operas part time. He is quite a character. After lunch, Brad and I went for a hike up amongst Genova’s string of castles that sit on the hills surrounding the city. This one of the most beautiful hikes I have ever been on. Church today in Genova was a lot of fun. I am staying with Deborah and her husband Dave at their house not far from the port tonight.